Mexican cook and former drug addict, Roman Cortes, is living proof that life can change instantly, through one chance meeting and many delicious tacos.
Last year, Cortes was running a food stall at a Day of The Dead festival in Sydney. On that same day, the CEO of Shaun Christie-David, happened to walk past Cortes’ stall. The social change entrepreneur noticed the long queue and, on a whim, jumped into Cortes’ overwhelmed kitchen to help out.
I believe he can show others who are struggling that a new life is possible.
It wasn’t until the festival queues calmed down that the strangers got talking. Cortes was a passionate Mexican cook looking for a way to give back, while Christie-David was in the business of connecting people recovering from addiction with food employment opportunities.
The two came together and developed a new pop-up initiative: . The Mexican food business is run by head chef, Cortes and is supported by Plate it Forward business, which also runs and .
Christie-David explains that Coyoacán Social aims to help disadvantaged people in need, like recovering addicts, by providing training and employment in the food industry.
“We also provide people with positive role models and access to representations of success,” says Christie-David. “Roman [Cortes] is successfully a long way through his recovery journey. That is why I resonated with him. I believe he can show others who are struggling that a new life is possible.”
I now have a great opportunity to use food to help people recovering from addiction. This is like a dream come true.
Cortes really does understand the road to recovery from addiction all too well. As the 45-year-old recalls, he developed a serious drug addiction in his early 20s while living in Mexico.
Cortes had sought help previously but nothing had worked. “At the time, I really thought there was no way to fix my addiction,” he tells SBS. “I felt like I was on the verge of dying. But sometimes that's what it takes for you to turn your life around. Once you’ve hit rock bottom, the only way is up.”
Eventually, Cortes found his way to a recovery house based on the Alcoholics Anonymous model – – that provided free food, accommodation and recovery assistance to those who needed it. “I decided to go with it and I’ve been clean ever since.” Cortes has been addiction-free now for over 20 years.
Using food to give back
To honour the centre that turned Cortes’ life around, Coyoacán Social will donate the cost of a taco in Mexico with every taco purchased in Sydney. The scheme is called ‘buy a taco, give a taco’. In just one month of operation, the cost of almost 600 tacos has been donated. The goal is to donate the cost of 20,000 tacos in one year.
“I now have a great opportunity to use food to help people recovering from addiction. This is like a dream come true. I get to truly give back.”
Coyoacán Social has also provided Cortes with the opportunity to pay homage to his mother, Maru Navarro, who helped him to recover. The Mexican eatery offers dishes largely influenced by her and the local cuisine of her birthplace Coyoacán (also the birthplace of Frida Kahlo), as well as other regions in Mexico.
On the menu are familiar Mexican classics like nachos, quesadillas and tostadas filled with either a 12-hour slow-cooked brisket, chicken tinga, conchinita pilbil (Yucatec Mayan slow-roasted pork) or nopalitos (cactus, corn and onion).
But if you want to try the speciality of the house, order quesabirria tacos made with grass-fed beef marinated in a traditional adobo. The meat comes topped with fresh onion, coriander and melted cheese.
The combined filling is then presented in a corn tortilla that has been cooked in the fat of marinated beef. “Our tacos are both crispy and soft. You can hear a crunch when you bite into them but they are still soft to touch.”
To make the dish true to its Mexican roots, quesabirria tacos come with a side of rich, slow-cooked beef bone consommé to dunk the taco in. Then, once you’ve eaten your tacos, drink the consommé straight from the cup.
“When people taste this dish, I want them to feel the warmth of family and know that they are somewhere they feel very welcome.”
The other main is cochinita pibil tacos that are filled with achiote marinated pulled pork and pickled red onion. If you’re still peckish, order a side of charros Mexican beans that come topped with pork crackling. Finally, wash it all down with a glass of horchata – a traditional drink made with rice and cinnamon.
“People are loving the food we’re offering because it’s real Mexican cuisine.
“At Coyoacán Social, we are not just trying to make a buck. There’s a social reason for us to be here. We serve authentic Mexican street food with a purpose. We really want to make a difference.”
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