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Family and food are intertwined for Batiste Gouraud, head chef at in Sydney's Chippendale. He grew up in Bretagne, in the west-northwest corner of France, with a father who was a chef and a close-knit family who came together around food.
"From a young age, I was influenced by food. My father was a chef and even when he wasn’t working, he was cooking for my family," Batiste told SBS Food. "I was always in the kitchen with him and loved seeing how happy you can make people with good food, made with love (and butter)."
The boeuf bourguignon and blanquette de veau dishes his father would make to warm up a cold, wet Bretagne winter were both a comfort and an inspiration to Batiste. He went on to start his own restaurant career at Le Mur du Roy in Bretagne, mentored by Nicolas Boyere.
"I’m always up for an adventure," says chef Batiste Gouraud, who came to Australia in 2018 to travel with friends. Source: Gavroche
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Beef bourguignon
"He’s also from Bretagne and taught me a lot, not only about cooking but how to treat the product and the behind the scenes work of being a chef," recalls Batiste. "He was incredibly patient and always took the time to answer my many questions and share his knowledge, experience, and passion."
His mentor's care paid off and Batiste continues to love his chosen career, which brought him to Australia in 2018. While he admits that being a chef isn't quite as glamorous as it's made out to be in films or on TV, he still thinks it's a great career.
"For me, the best thing about being a chef is that it’s never boring. Every day there are different things happening in the kitchen and it allows me to channel my creativity and passion for food."
One of the dishes Batiste is most passionate about is Saint Jacques à la bretonne, a scallop starter he nominates as one of his signature dishes. It represents where he's from in France and the important role food plays in his relationships.
"It’s a traditional Bretagne dish and uses buckwheat galette and a creamy cider reduction with the scallops," he explains. "It really reminds me of family lunches at my grandparent’s house on a Sunday."
Family lunches in Bretagne would start early, with Batiste's grandmother making buckwheat galette, which are like a salty crepe made with buckwheat.
"We would often enjoy it with cider at lunch so when developing the menu at Gavroche I took my love of scallops and combined it with buckwheat galette and a creamy cider reduction," he says. "Now the dish serves as a reminder of family, a combination of my fondest childhood memories, and my passion for cooking."
Batiste says the dish is easy to make at home, provided you're careful with your timing. "[It] needs a lot of patience, love and butter," he says. "A salted one, of course!"
Butter is used especially liberally in Bretagne, where dairy farming is prized. Breton butter is usually salted and often produced as a specialty range. For instance, butter produced from the Froment du Léon breed of cow has a unique orange tinge.
Batiste's signature dish, Saint Jacques à la bretonne is a traditional Bretagne dish that reminds him of home. Source: Gavroche
As well as quality butter, when making Saint Jacques à la bretonne get the freshest scallops you can find, preferably with the coral still intact. In France, all scallops are sold this way, but if 'naked' scallops are all that is available in your area, don't let it dissuade you. This dish even works well using frozen scallops, thawed gently in milk.
It's definitely a dish for sharing. In Bretagne, Saint Jacques à la bretonne would most likely be served with a crisp farm cider like Loïc Raison Cidrier Breton Brut or Royal Guillevic. Australian brands like Willie Smith's and Three Oaks' Cider Co. are excellent substitutes.
"Everyone loves the scallops and often comments on how unique the flavours are together," Batiste says. "I often cook it at home for friends that are visiting."
