The Melbourne suburb of Fitzroy is home to a few things of note: the original Huxtaburger, more tattooed than non-tattooed people and everything a vegan could ever hope for. From supermarkets and shoe stores to cafes and yes, even ramen, there’s a veganised version of pretty much everything a carnivore loves.
Located directly on top of the Vegan Hellmouth (on the corner of Smith and Gertrude Streets) is a cute Japanese eatery that mashes up the wholefoods way of life with legit Japanese technique. It offers wholesome, colourful Japanese fare with vegan flair (there are also pescatarian options if you fear going ‘full vegan’).
It was opened by Saori Kawasaki, a vego of 18 years, and her husband Tomoya, who together also owned Japanese eateries in Collingwood (an institution at 14 years) and Wabi Sabi Garden St Kilda. Having found communities in Melbourne where healthy food and provenance are key drivers, the couple set about honouring the cuisine of their heritage - just slightly more loaded on the wholefoods front.
More than 20 ingredients make up the veggie ramen at Neko Neko. Source: Neko Neko
At lunch, there are baskets of sushi rolls stuffed with virtuous fillings such as black rice, quinoa, kale and steamed prawns or tofu, as well as nutritious bentos of meaty miso-glazed eggplant or grilled salmon on brown rice with a rainbow pickles. But real buzz about Neko is their vegan ramen, a concept that evolved out of a series of vegetarian events held at Wabi Sabi Salon that took off. Is it a novelty? Not really.
“A lot of Japanese food is vegetable side dishes,” says Saori. “We loved that idea [so Neko Neko was born]. Veggies are fun to eat and good for your health. We want people to feel happy in the body and the mind when they eat here.”
There are two ramen options: a classic soy-based broth and a heartier spicy sesame tantan version, both of which contain over 20 ingredients to create a rich, layered and aromatic broth.
So does a vegan version have any chance against the big guns? While ramen puritans will argue that the heart and soul of the dish is in the animal bits that emulsify and enrich the broth, Neko’s vegan version still offers a lot of heart. It’s substantial, loaded with textural toppings, steamy, aromatic and good to the last drop – with the added bonus of not leaving you feeling as heavy by the time you get to the bottom.
Better than a great, porky tonkotsu ramen? This carnivore says probably not. Worth trying? Absolutely.
Sun - Fri 12pm - 3pm; 5:30pm - 10pm
83 Smith Street, Fitzroy, VIC
