Cocoa vs chocolate: where does your chocolate cake reside?

Is cocoa or chocolate better in your chocolate cake? And should that even be a question?

chocolate fudge cake

Source: Donna Hay Everyday Fresh

Chocolate cake is always a good idea. But does it matter whether you're using real chocolate or the tinned powdery stuff that's kept somewhere in the back of your pantry?

First of all, the powdery stuff that tastes a lot like eating coffee straight from the jar is just as 'real' as the yummy stuff you'd happily eat a block of.
Cocoa powder is one of the raw ingredients used in making chocolate. It's made by roasting ground cacao beans at high temperatures. To make chocolate, you add cocoa powder to cocoa butter, additional fats and sugar. To achieve smooth, even chocolate, there are often other emulsifiers added as well. Milk chocolate will also have milk added as the main ingredient.
Anneka Manning
Anneka Manning specialises in teaching not only the ‘how’ but also the ‘why’ of baking. Source: Neela Shearer
"When you add cocoa powder to a cake, you're essentially adding a gluten-free flavouring that has similar baking qualities to cornflour, but it's got that beautiful flavour to it," says the creator of and all-round baking guru .

Anneka likes it because as a raw ingredient, you know exactly what you're putting into your every time. "Chocolate can vary in cocoa butter solids and other things," she explains. "With cocoa, you're getting the same product each time."
Melt and mix chocolate coconut cake
Anneka's melt and mix chocolate coconut cake uses cocoa powder to produce a suitably cakey cake to please the masses. Source: Alan Benson
Find the recipe .

As cocoa is a 'raw' chocolate ingredient, it also means you can better manipulate the flavour of your cake by adding sugar and fat to result in your desired texture and flavour. More fat will create a denser cake, more sugar will dilute the natural bitterness of cocoa. You can also experiment by using different fats and sugars to create your own unique flavour.

This brings us to Anneka's preference for her baking.
It's kind of like a brownie," says Anneka. "Do you like a cakey brownie or a fudgy brownie?
"They both give that lovely chocolate flavour, but they do each adds something quite different to a chocolate cake," she notes. "I quite often use them both because I want the texture of the chocolate, with the more intense flavour that you can get by adding extra cocoa to your recipe without added fat and sugar that comes with adding the chocolate itself."
Chocolate cupcakes by Kirsten Tibballs
Kirsten's classic chocolate cupcakes use both cocoa powder and good quality milk chocolate. Source: Murdoch Books / Greg Elms
Get the recipe .

For , pâtissier and much-loved chocolate queen, a cake made from good quality cocoa powder beats chocolate. "By adding cocoa powder you get a great chocolate flavour without sugar, which you usually already have in a chocolate cake recipe," she explains.

Her tip for what makes a 'good quality' cocoa? "Use a Dutch-processed cocoa powder with 22 percent fat," she advises. "A Dutch-processed cocoa is alkaline on the pH scale, which will tenderise your cake texture and give you a great hit of chocolate flavour."
Kirsten Tibballs
When it comes to chocolate, Kirsten Tibballs knows her stuff. Source: Supplied
Science aside, it really comes down to texture. A recipe using cocoa will usually be a lighter cake with a large crumb. Chocolate will result in a fudgier cake with a smaller crumb and a denser texture.   "You don't want to use chocolate in a sponge, it will weigh down your texture," cautions Anneka.

"It's kind of like a brownie," says Anneka. "Do you like a cakey brownie or a fudgy brownie?"

Most of us would say we like both, but for the record, cocoa will give you a cakier brownie and chocolate a fudgier result. That's not to say you won't get a fudgy cake using cocoa alone (exhibit A: ), but when you're starting out on your chocolate cake mixing journey, it's a solid place to start.
Fudgey chocolate and cherry brownies
The fudgiest, most chocolatey brownies naturally use both cocoa powder and chocolate. Source: Alan Benson
Find the recipe .

Anneka has a tip for brownies and another recipe where you do want to use chocolate: mud cake.

"To intensify the flavour, add some cocoa powder as well," she says.

For the muddiest mud cake, be sure to use good-quality dark chocolate (not compound cooking chocolate, which is made with vegetable fat instead of cocoa butter) with a high cocoa mass. Then substitute about a quarter cup of the flour in the recipe with cocoa powder.

All the big, bold, bitter flavour of a cocoa-based cake with the same rich denseness of a true mud cake. Winning at its peak.

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4 min read
Published 25 November 2022 10:41am
By Bron Maxabella


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