For the first time this March, Filipino food will take centre stage at a major Australian food festival.
With three events over three days bringing together celebrated Filipino chefs and ambassadors from around the world, the showcase will include masterclasses, dinners, discussions and, for the food champions among us, celebration. It’s been a long time coming.
I’m also one of the headliners, joining New York and newly anointed ; Manila’s beloved , chef-owner of and ; and , executive chef at Melbourne’s lauded , where one of the events (a collaborative dinner series named thanks to sponsors ) will take place.
As the author of , I’ve observed and taken part as Filipino food has carved its way into public consciousness. Its early lack of representation was, in fact, the inspiration for my book. As the daughter of a Filipina and a curious food journalist, it plagued me that so little was known about the cuisine and country I loved, while knowledge about food from nearby Thailand and Vietnam was deep-set. It was echoed by a recurring question from friends or strangers I’d meet: “What is ?”
Cassava cake from Yasmin Newman's cookbook (her mother was known as the "Cassava Queen"). Source: Yasmin Newman
Six years since its first release, 7000 Islands has just been published in a new collector's edition. At the same time, respected publications (including ) have hailed the cuisine as ‘the next big thing’, and modern Filipino restaurants, like Sydney’s , are opening their doors to throngs of excited diners.
Then there's (pinay meaning women in Filipino): these female entrepreneurs are on a similar mission to spread the word about Filipino food – they're the ones spearheading the Filipino presence at the festival. “At the moment, there are community festivals and (eateries),” says The Entree.Pinays' , referring to events and shops traditionally geared towards the Filipino community. “But we are working towards greater awareness in the Australian mainstream.”
Your Filipino food champions cooking at Barrio (clockwise from top left): Jordy Navarra, Nicole Ponseca, Ross Magnaye and Yasmin Newman. Source: Supplied
It plagued me that so little was known about the cuisine and country I loved, while knowledge about food from nearby Thailand and Vietnam was deep-set.
To make a case for Filipino food's place in the local culinary landscape, the group lays out stats: Australia is home to around and Philippine-born people are the in Australia.
“Never in our wildest dreams did we ever think we’d be speaking with – let alone hosting – the likes of Jordy Navarra, Nicole Ponseca, Yasmin Newman and Ross Magnaye,” says Grace Guinto, also from The Entree.Pinays. “Having reached out to key government departments, influencers and media, we are also thrilled for their support.”
While the menus are still being finalised (just to tease you a little more), I can personally guarantee flavour, and lots of it. Big, bold salty, sour, sweet, bitter and umami notes – colliding in delicious and sometimes unexpected combinations against a pure backdrop of rice – is a cornerstone of Filipino cuisine, along with a love of fresh seafood, oodles of noodles, the scent of charcoal barbecue and richly prepared meats, especially pork (just .
For Magnaye, he's excited about the challenge of combining Australian ingredients with Filipino favourites – like Western Australian marron with (shrimp paste), perhaps? “Perfection!” he says.
When it comes to ingredients, his personal pick is a coconut vinegar from , in the country’s south. “I love its unique flavour and diversity. You can use it in pork and , for (ceviche) or simply for (dipping sauce).”
My favourites? I can’t go past the Philippines’ awe-inspiring sweets and the exotic ingredients that bring them to life, from (toasted glutinous rice) and (a type of coconut) to , the naturally purple yam that stole global attention last year.
For attendees, each of the cooks and chefs will bring a unique perspective to the series of events. Magnaye, for example, is known for his modern, seasonal outlook; Navarra is lauded for his elevated approach; Ponseca brings an urban flair; and I celebrate rustic, home cooking and the stories behind Filipino food.
From tales of Arab traders, Chinese seafarers, Spanish conquistadors and American GI Joes to the Filipinos who took these influences and made them their own, come delicious dishes including (Filipino paella), (deep-fried pork knuckle) and cassava and coconut caramel cake, and inimitable eating experiences – like the . Filipino food is just waiting for you to discover it.
Get your fix of Filipino food through one of these events:
10 March, The Coopers Malthouse Theatre, 113 Sturt Street, Southbank
featuring Jordy Navarra, Nicole Ponseca, Yasmin Newman and Ross Magnaye (sponsored by )
12-13 March, Rice Paper Sister, 15 Hardware Lane, Melbourne
11 March, Books for Cooks, 115-121 Victoria St, Melbourne
Filipino lessons
Filipino chicken adobo
