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Any one can cook the famous French-style of roast chook, poulet roti. As the late American cook, Julia Child says, it’s a deceptively simple dish.
But, not everyone can do it well. In fact, if you live and die by Child’s French fare rules, your friends and family will critique your cooking based on how well you make this one meal.
“I had come to believe that one can judge the quality of a cook by his or her roast chicken,” Child says in her book, . “Above all, it should taste like chicken: it should be so good that even a perfectly simple, buttery roast should be a delight.”
Clement Martin, licensee and general manager at in Sydney, explains that the dish’s key feature – butter – is what makes the roast chook taste so special. “There is not a lot that goes into the seasoning for this style of roast chicken,” says Martin, who was raised in La Rochelle on the west coast of France.
“In true French fashion, when I was growing up, the bird was always cooked with way more butter than necessary. It was served with whatever herbs and veggies were available in the garden at the time.”
The devil is in the detail
If poulet roti is so simple, how do you make your version of the roast chook stand out?
Head chef co-owner of Sydney’s , Ludovic Geyer, believes you can produce a cracking poulet roti if you focus on the chicken and how you prepare it. “You need to use good quality products to make a massive difference to the taste. For example, always use a free-range or organic chicken. You’ll notice the difference.”
Geyer’s next tip is to mix garlic or herbs with butter for basting. “I separate the skin from the meat with a spoon or spatula and place the butter underneath the skin.” He adds that clarified butter is preferred because it is less likely to caramelise while the chicken is cooking and more likely to produce crispy skin.
He also recommends scoring the thigh before putting the chicken in the oven. “It’s true that the breast cooks faster than the thigh. So be sure to score meat that is thicker to ensure a more even distribution of heat.” Geyer estimates that a 1.5kg chicken should take one hour to cook at 220 degrees Celsius.
Seasoning secrets
When it comes to seasoning the chicken, sticking with traditional ways will always produce a decent result.
Opt for herbs like rosemary, parsley or thyme. Geyer adds that sometimes, he follows his mother’s influence and utilises a mix of paprika mixed with salt and curry powder to season the skin. “I think it goes great with chicken. Paprika also brings back memories of my mother’s cooking.”
Geyer also places herbs and salt in the cavity to ensure the flavour spreads throughout the chicken. Child was also known to do something similar. Her recipe sees cooks lightly seasoning the chicken inside and out by stuffing it with sautéed vegetables, lemon slices and fresh herbs.
Martin believes that although simplicity is best, you can ramp up the seasoning to create a showstopper roast chook. “At NOLA we brine our chicken overnight, so the bird retains its moisture while cooking. We then smoke it for a few hours before moving it to the oven.
Brining at home
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“Right before serving it, we pass on it the rotisserie to add that charred flavour element. This cooking process, added with our house 39 secret spice mix, is what sets [our French roast chicken] apart from the competition.”
It was a very important part of tradition – sitting around the dinner for this meal was very special.
A roast to celebrate
If you adopt some of these simple tips, Geyer says, you’re likely to end up with a real winner of a chicken dinner. Overall, your goal should be to ensure you cook a great French roast chook with a crispy skin that sits above luscious, moist meat.
On a deeper level, a French-style roast chicken must be so delicious that it can regularly attract family around the table each Sunday in celebration of life.
“Growing up in France, we always ate a roast chicken on a Sunday,” says Geyer. "It was a very important part of tradition – sitting around the dinner for this meal was very special.”
Martin agrees that poulet roti should taste like a butter-basted heaven that unities people together for a weekly instalment of joy.
“To me, this dish means family,” says Martin. “It means coming together and sharing a moment. These days, I make it at home [in Sydney] on a Sunday with my family. It can be made quite simply and enjoyed by everyone.”
