"Follow the seasons, never (ever) compromise on flavour and remember where you come from," these are probably the rules Greek-born chef Natalia Gaspari lives by.
Coming from a family of incredible cooks and a yaiyia who mesmerised her daily with her filo skills back home in Kefalonia, it seems like it was only a matter of time before hospitality stole her soul. Lucky for Gaspari she went willingly at the age of 14 and recounts learning and cooking in her school holidays. “I remember watching yiayia make amygdalopita and spanakopita at home for the family." As a 14-year-old girl, Gaspari remembers how all the other kids would hang off the table while yiayia made her filo from scratch, "it became a game for us kids, a competition to see who could make the biggest and the best - this was my childhood,” laughs Gaspari.
In 2011, Gaspari took her Kefalonian roots and came to Australia. Very soon after arriving she began working at The Hellenic Club for a couple of years before moving into Alpha kitchen and then onto organising events at his sister location, Beta Bar and Gallery. To say the past seven years have been a whirlwind is probably an understatement for Gaspari who is the matriarch behind Sydney’s , which opened its doors earlier this year.
Yiayia's spanakopita is a standout. Spinach, piperati feta, dill, kefalograviera wrapped in filo. (Photographer: Daniele Massacci) Source: Daniele Massacci.
I believe Greek cuisine is so rich that we can do better than just a moussaka.
Ble's menu takes Gaspari back to her roots as she creates a menu that highlights Greek culture, heart-warming traditions, authentic flavours, the importance of history and geography, all into one dish with her own contemporary twist. “You won’t find all of those typical dishes that you do at every other Greek restaurant," says Gaspari. "I believe Greek cuisine is so rich that we can do better than just a moussaka and I want people from all parts of Greece to be able to find that dish that speaks to them no matter which part they are from".
So what raises the roof on her Kefalonian menu? Marjoram is royalty and the bridge from Greece directly to Ramsgate. Freshly baked bread and extra virgin olive oil sings daily, mezedes of saganaki, dips and sheep’s milk cheeses hold their own, so too do their ‘Off the Karvouna’ menu spanning grilled and roasted meats - in particular, their spectacle of a 48-hour whole lamb, which requires a little notice but is worth hyping over. But overall, it’s the seafood and the homemade pastry and pasta that is really speaking fluently in that Mediterranean summer lingo.
Kefalonia bakaliaropita (blue eye cod, roast pumpkin and skordalia (potato and garlic dip) covered in a squid-ink-coloured filo dome), as well as their lobster ravioli filled with haloumi cream and mussels in a kakavia (seafood) broth are already cementing their place on this menu. “Kefalonia pies just have their way of getting to you and we make our filo from scratch every day - it's just how I want to do it," says Gaspari. "All our ravioli and pasta is also made daily and used in dishes that are inspired by Kefalonian cuisine – which has a touch of Italian expression because of our proximity,” says Gaspari.
Housemade olive bread baked fresh daily. (Photographer: Daniele Massacci) Source: Daniele Massacci
Lobster ravioli - haloumi cream, mussels in a kakavia broth. (Photographer: Daniele Massacci) Source: Daniele Massacci
And before you think it’s all seafood and pasta, Ble's brunch menu keeps both the millennial’s and your weekend plans in check. A Greek-style muesli parfait, Nutella pancakes, fish loukoumades and their Kefalonian-style bruschetta of marjoram saltsa (Greek-style tomato sauce), feta cheese and olive oil - means that smashed avo might just have a serious contender for the top spot.
As well as a selection of Greek wines to cosy up to, it's their Greek coffee vanilla slice, galaktoboureko made with a mastic custard filling and yiayia’s amygdalopita, almond praline, amaretto cherries and kaimaki that are bringing it home for the after-dinner devotees out there. #wegotyourback
“Always make sure to bring good food wherever you are,” says Gaspari as she hopes Ble's menu will change what people have come to expect when they order Greek food. Stay tuned as this fiery chef plans to bring her Kefalonian A-game to Melbourne in 2019 and we’re taking Gaspari’s lead and kicking back with both a bowl of ravioli and a piece of yiayia’s amygdalopita.
Shop 2, 203-208 Ramsgate Rd, Ramsgate, NSW
Tues - Thurs 11:30 am - 10 pm, Fri - Sun 7 am - 10 pm
