Savoury ruffled filo pie (soufra)

This sweet Greek custard pie is given the savoury treatment with a sprinkling of salty feta.

Savoury soufra Source: Camellia Aebischer

I’ve never met a Greek baked custard and pastry dish I haven’t liked. Bougatsa, portokalopita, galaktoboureko, the list goes on. Though turn to the savoury world of filo and custard suddenly disappears.

Greece’s soufra, a visually striking crinkled filo dessert has been doing the rounds on the internet, named as crinkle cake. It’s folded filo pastry baked with butter, then covered in sweet custard and baked again. The crinkle cake name sadly erases this dish’s Greek cultural significance, not to mention the filo-fledged history this unleavened pastry has across the Middle East and Balkan cuisines.

Anyway, I’ve gone ahead and perhaps disgraced its sweet origins some more by taking this custard pie into spanakopita territory. Okay, here me out. I've replaced the typical sugar and cinnamon combo with a good helping of crumbled feta. Some wilted spinach, leftover lamb, olives or sauteed mushrooms wouldn’t go astray here either. Feel free to fold them in with the crinkles or mix with the custard and pour on top.

This is what you'll need. Feel free to use any cheese in the fridge, blue or cheddar would work a treat. Source: Camellia Aebischer

How to make savoury feta soufra

Prepare a large roasting tray by lining the bottom with a piece of baking paper. Next to the tray, lay:

• 1 x 375 g box of filo pastry

Working one sheet at a time, concertina the pastry sheets, like you’re about to make a paper fan. Place them in the tray with the creased sides facing top and bottom. Repeat, placing each piece parallel to the previous until you’ve used all the sheets of filo.

Evenly drizzle over:

• ½ cup olive oil, or melted butter

Bake at 200°C for 15 minutes, until lightly golden.

Meanwhile, create a savoury custard. In a large bowl add:

• 300 ml cream
• 300 ml milk
• 6 eggs
• 1 tsp salt
• 150 g feta cheese, crumbled

Whisk with a fork to combine, making sure all the eggs are incorporated.

Pour the custard over the baked pastry, tapping and jiggling as needed to get it into all the gaps. Turn the oven down to 180°C and bake for a further 20 minutes or until set and golden. Don’t worry if it puffs a little, it will deflate when you remove it from the oven.

Garnish with chopped chives. Serve warm or at room temp.

Crispy ridges met by cheesy custardy cracks. Source: Camellia Aebischer

Love the story? Follow the author here: Instagram @cammienoodle.