Some of the best biryani in India is made at a wrestling pit

This 100-year-old facility provides a training ground for upcoming wrestlers in the morning and evening, while their biryani sold at lunch funds it.

This traditional wrestling arena in Bangalore, India has been serving biryanis for 40 years. Credit: Luke Nguyen

—- Luke Nguyen's India will premiere on Thursday, 5 October 2023 at 8:30pm on SBS and stream free on SBS On Demand. —-

At first, there seems to be no connection between India's traditional mud wrestling and the classic mixed rice dish, biryani, but not until you introduce Khadir Ahmed into the equation.

Biryani is one of the most popular dish in Bangalore, India, which originated among the Muslims of Southern Asia.

Ahmed is a fourth-generation proprietor of Shivajinagar Gardi Ustad Pehlwan Kale Bhai, a century-old wrestling pit in Bangalore.

Credit: Luke Nguyen's India

This 100-year-old historic facility not only serves as a wrestling pit, but has also been doubling up as a cherished biryani joint for the past 40 years, seamlessly blending the rich traditions of the food and sport that Ahmed is passionate about.

The facility provides a training ground for upcoming wrestlers in the morning and evening, while their biryani sold at lunch funds it.

"Pots replace the weights and cooking replaces the wrestling," says Luke Nguyen who visited the unique facility for Luke Nguyen's India.

Just like the wrestling that requires painstaking preparation of the arena floor (made of special sea sand, ghee and oil) a gigantic pot of biryani to feed 150 to 200 guests requires a lot of chopping and stirring.

The biryani oil is the key to this flavourful and aromatic one-pot dish, says Nguyen.

Luke helping out to make Bandalore’s legendary biryani. Credit: Luke Nguyen’s India

Spices such as green cardamon, cinnamon and cloves are heated together in sunflower oil to bring out the aroma before the red onions are added to be caramelised and to bring out the texture of the biryani.

With a bucket of sliced tomatoes, a large bowl of coriander and mint, and scoops of spices, the wrestling pit will be filled with an explosion of aroma as it approaches lunchtime.

Credit: Luke Nguyen's India

When it comes to the meat, it's the yoghurt enzymes that will tenderise 20kg of mutton on the bone.

And the rice? "Al dente cooked rice is very important in a biryani. You cannot overcook it," says Nguyen.

The rice completely covers the pot, allowing the mutton underneath to be steamed slowly.

Once it's done, the biryani is sold only at lunchtime, and people of Bangalore queue up to savour the dish, which hasn't changed in decades.

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