The joys of Japanese breakfasts in Kyoto

The first meal of the day can serve up the cultural uniqueness and transport wonders of the local cuisine.

Start your day with a taste of Kyoto. Source: Tine Caisip

Growing up in Australia as a biracial Filipino Australian, I was keenly aware of the contrasting nature of Western and Asian breakfasts. My childhood mornings were filled with buttery Vegemite toast, bacon and eggs, and warm porridge drizzled with golden syrup. Yet, alongside these familiar dishes, I also relished the delights of fragrant Filipino garlic fried rice (sinangag), pan-fried slices of salty Spam, golden crispy milkfish (bangus), and comforting bowls of chicken congee (lugaw). As a young food enthusiast, breakfast quickly became a cherished part of my day. However, none of this early education prepared me for the extraordinary experience of Japanese breakfasts.

Across all nations, locals might tell you that home-style cooking offers the most delicious and authentic cultural dishes – not restaurants. Italian grandmothers safeguard their secret tomato pasta sauce methods using the best local tomatoes, olive oil and herbs; South Asian families create flavourful dahl with region-specific spices; Korean home cooks make family-style kimchi using oysters, clams and saewoojeot, based on what’s available nearby. Many of these recipes are time-honoured and passed down through generations.

A Japanese breakfast can include many dishes, such as miso soup, pickles, eggs, rice, tofu and seaweed. Source: Tine Caisip

Japanese regional cuisine is no different, offering an array of delectable dishes exclusive to each prefecture, showcasing unique flavours and culinary traditions. Some home-style dishes can be hard to find at bustling fine-dining restaurants or dining chains. As a tourist, even if you plan to buy ingredients to prepare and cook yourself, shared kitchen space isn't always available where you're staying.

The solution? Japanese breakfasts, which are often found specifically in the setting of traditional ryokans (inns). My first unforgettable encounter with this experience took place a decade ago, at Yadoya Kikokuso in Kyoto. This family-run ryokan, with a remarkable 140-year history spanning four generations of the Yoshimura family, offers Kyoto-style traditional breakfasts. Each morning, I savoured the diverse array of dishes celebrating local ingredients and recipes passed down through the ages. Featuring an ever-changing protein (often fish, occasionally tofu), rice, flavourful soups, tangy tsukemono (pickles), delicate egg dishes and sweet treats, each breakfast was a testament to the rich culinary history of Kyoto, and everything was made lovingly in-house by the Yoshimura family.

Trying Yadoya Kikokuso's breakfast spread, for the first time in 2013, left a deep impact. Source: Tine Caisip

I encountered extraordinary dishes that left an indelible mark on my palate – they were different to any other Japanese foods I'd tasted. From the exquisite fish paste delicately stuffed with fragrant cherry blossom sticky rice, to the tantalising cod adorned with pickled myoga (Japanese ginger) stems, each bite was a harmonious symphony of tastes. As I savoured jewelled grapefruit jellies – meticulously arranged on traditional Japanese plates, against the backdrop of a glossy lacquered table overlooking a picturesque koi pond garden – I was transported into a realm of serenity. It was a profound and unforgettable experience.

I encountered extraordinary dishes that left an indelible mark on my palate – they were different to any other Japanese foods I'd tasted.

Ten years later, I planned another trip to Japan to see the cherry blossoms again. The very first thing I booked without question? Yadoya Kikokuso. My second visit was just as enriching (and sumptuous) as the first. The incredibly meaningful experience of being able to taste Kyoto's culinary history stayed with me for ten years and will for decades to come. I invite you to embark on your own memorable gastronomic delights, seek out hidden gems like Kikokuso and taste the true essence of authentic local cuisine, no matter where you travel.