The overlooked cuisine of Tamil Nadu

Tamil Nadu is a captivating destination for those seeking a vibrant and varied culinary experience.

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Sonya Gandhi from Kanagu Mess Credit: Luke Nguyen's India

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Tamil Nadu, located on the southern end of India's mainland, is known for its distinct culinary scene.

While the northern states of India boast a predominantly Hindu population, the journey southward unfolds a captivating tapestry of diverse religions, paving the way for a unique culinary landscape.

Madurai is one of India's oldest cities, dating back over 2000 years. It is also known as the "food capital of Tamil Nadu", where streets are lined with produce markets and food vendors serving customers around the clock.

"People line up for local delicacies that can only be found on these streets," says Luke Nguyen as he explores the streets of Madurai, for .
Cotton seed milk, or Paruthi Paal is one such local delicacy.

This peculiar drink is made by soaking cotton seeds overnight and grinding them to extract the milk, then mixed with cereals, jaggery, dried ginger, coconut, and a hint of cardamom.
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Cotton seed milk or Paruthi Paal Credit: Luke Nguyen's India
The drink is sweet, almost like an Asian sweet pudding with coconut milk and spices, explains Nguyen.
Generations of locals credit Paruthi Paal for giving them energy and long, healthy lives.
Luke Nguyen
Vadas are a cherished delight hailing from south India, and enjoyed across the country.
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Fried vada Credit: Luke Nguyen's India
These savoury fried snacks are versatile depending on the region, with the batter made of legumes, potatoes or vegetables and the shapes ranging from ball to doughnut shape.

Occasionally seasoned with spice combinations, these crispy bites are often served with chutney.

After something more filling? Another speciality of Tamil Nadu is goat's head curry which is adored by locals.
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Goat's head curry Credit: Luke Nguyen's India
"I really love to delve deep into the local culture and find those traditional dishes," says Nguyen, as he learns how to cook goat's heads curry.

"Nothing goes to waste," even the ears, which are customarily removed and snacked on during cooking.

There are plenty of 'messes' around the city, a type of restaurant whose menu focuses on home-style cooking, like Kumar Mess, known for their innovative take on dosas.

Kumar Mess began as a food stall in 1975, feeding the crowds at Madurai's temple festivals. Unlike the traditional, larger, crispy dosas, their dosas are smaller and thicker, almost like a savoury pancake.

Their traditional mutton curry dosas and crab dosas are a must-try.
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Mutton curry dosa and crab dosa, Kumar Mess Credit: Luke Nguyen's India
A new ingredient in the dining scene is quail. Quail farming was banned until 2014 but now many chefs enjoy preparing the ingredient.

Kanagu Mess has been feeding locals for 25 years and is famous for its quail curry and quail fry, cooked by Sonya Gandhi.
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Quail fry, Kanagu Mess Credit: Luke Nguyen's India
The diverse cuisine of south India is "mind blowing," says Nguyen.

"It has changed my perspective on what South Indian cooking can be. Yet I feel I've barely scraped the surface of this region's innovative and historical cuisine."

What do SBS Tamil producers say about their favourite dish?

For SBS Tamil executive producer Raymond Selvaraj, holds a special place in his heart as a favourite sweet, distinguished by the use of karupatti (palm jaggery) for a healthier touch.

"This delectable treat, traditionally prepared by my late mother on joyous occasions, [and] has become a nostalgic symbol of familial warmth. "

"Despite my sisters' sincere attempts to replicate our mother's recipe, the perfection and unique flavour seem to elude us. Each bite of their rendition serves as a poignant reminder of the irreplaceable culinary magic that my mother brought to this cherished sweet," he says.
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Raymond Selvaraj (left) and Kulasegaram Sanchayan (right) from SBS Tamil
On the other hand, Tamil dumpling or kozhukkattai (koḻukkaṭṭai) made with rice flour, grated coconut, mung bean and jaggery are producer Kulasegaram Sanchayan's favourite.

These half-moon-shaped delights are steamed and served fresh as a bite to go with afternoon tea, he explains.

"Although, kozhukkattai is made as a sweet dish, nowadays health-conscious migrants stuff it with a savoury filling. "

He says the dish also plays an important role in many religious and ceremonial events such as weddings, funerals, fasts, and temple festivals.

"When a child gets their first tooth, the family will celebrate it by making a special kozhukkattai called pallu-kozhukkattai (pallu, meaning teeth) which are dropped gently on the child’s head, wishing for it to have healthy teeth and gums. "

The special kozhukkattai is made with coconut pieces on the edges to resemble teeth.

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SBS Food is a 24/7 foodie channel for all Australians, with a focus on simple, authentic and everyday food inspiration from cultures everywhere. NSW stream only.
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4 min read
Published 20 October 2023 10:03am
Updated 21 December 2023 3:39pm
By Yumi Oba
Source: SBS

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