If there’s somewhere that in no way resembles Eastern Europe, it’s Australia. We have neither the extreme cold nor the tolerance for vodka (though we might think we do) but what we do have is a tremendous capacity for embracing the litany of cultures and cuisines that make up our Australian way of life.
From hearty beet-red borscht and soft, pliable pierogi dumplings to dill-scented pickles and hearty braises, the food of Eastern Europe – that is The Ukraine, Russia, Hungary, Poland, Georgia and their close neighbours – is tasty stuff, but it’s never really taken off in Australia in any significant way. Maybe it’s the fact that fuelling up on hearty food and not having to trudge back through the snow to get home kind of takes the romance out of it.
But thanks to siblings Stefan and Sofia Soltys and their new Fitzroy neighbourhood wine bar , Eastern Block favourites are getting a new, lighter twist that fits right in with Melbourne’s way of life (no ski shoes necessary).
Stefan and Sofia’s Ukrainian roots and second generation hospitality background make their move to opening a wine bar specialising in natural wines and the food they grew up with, an easy one. With an 8,000-year history, Georgia is one of the oldest natural winemaking regions on the planet and pairing it with the delicious food they grew up eating at their grandmother’s (Babka’s) house just makes sense.
“Our memories of going to our Babka’s house as kids was a warm one,” Stefan says. “Everyone gets up when you walk through the door, there are hugs, it gets loud, there’s always too much delicious food; we wanted to recreate that feeling, but in a more modern context.
“Everyone who walks into Little Odessa gets a big smile and are made to feel welcome – you’re in our home and it makes us so happy to see locals now getting to know each other just from coming here.” It’s a fundamental hospitality play, but you’d be surprised how many times it’s forgotten.
The siblings’ take on the menu is something we’d like to see more of. “What’s happened to Italian cuisine in Australia is amazing,” Stefan says of the fresher take on Little Odessa’s menu. “This current wave of Italian cuisine has taken traditional ideas and recipes but made them lighter, more modern. I was inspired by that idea.”
But there are just some things that shouldn’t be screwed with, like their grandmother’s borscht and pierogis; those have stayed firmly as Babka would like it, and so will you.
Wed – Sun 5pm – 10.30pm; Sat – Sun 11am – 3pm
274 Rear Brunswick St, Fitzroy, Victoria 3065
