grew up in a Greek household like any other in Sydney’s inner west during the late 1970s and 80s, eating Mediterranean food. Back then, her family’s kitchen pantry and fridge were always brimming with the iconic ingredients that have defined Mediterranean cuisine: tomatoes, olives, cheese, fresh herbs and dried spices.
Tzouganatos recalls her Mediterranean diet during childhood in her new cookbook, , flashing back to moments when she used to generously drizzle extra virgin olive oil over her family’s Greek salad or her mother’s biscuit dough.
Although decades have passed since those simple days, Tzouganatos’ own kitchen habits have not changed a great deal. She still practises the healthy art of Mediterranean eating and enjoys cooking Greek dishes at home.
This is despite the fact that around 15 years ago, Tzouganatos was diagnosed with coeliac disease and became gluten-free. “Thankfully, the Mediterranean diet is primarily naturally gluten-free, as it is based on whole, unprocessed foods,” says the host of SBS’s in her latest book.
Regional variations in the Mediterranean diet (between countries and regions) have resulted in many traditional gluten-free food options. Consider iconic Mediterranean recipes for Italian biscotti and torte Caprese (which both use gluten-free almond flour), marinated octopus, pumpkin risotto or even rice-filled dolmades (stuffed vine leaves). These Mediterranean recipes, by their nature, do not contain gluten.
Helen Tzouganatos talks about the benefits and challenges of following a gluten-free Mediterranean diet. Source: Photo by Jeremy Simons
Of course, sourcing gluten-free Mediterranean food is not always simple. Tzouganatos says it can become quite difficult on special occasions when tradition calls for glutinous recipes.
“The most significant challenges when eating gluten-free on a Mediterranean diet are [also] bakery items and the sneaky breadcrumbs often found in meatballs,” she writes.
Over the years since Tzouganatos’ diagnosis, she has mastered small changes and ingredient swaps to create culturally authentic gluten-free versions of traditional dishes. Her new book features gluten-free Mediterranean favourites like loukoumades, lamb and spinach gozleme and even focaccia. Tzouganatos’s skill in gluten-free recipe development lies in ingredient modification and kitchen management.
Today, Tzouganatos’ pantry and fridge are still stocked with the Mediterranean ingredients of her childhood and a few essential additional products. The result is a varied Mediterranean repertoire from all over the region, full of naturally gluten-free dishes and traditional modified recipes. Both, she says, are sure to please the tastebuds of the toughest nonna or yiayia.
What’s in Helen Tzouganatos’ kitchen?
EVOO
Tzouganatos says her kitchen’s key ingredient is the same now as it was during childhood: extra virgin olive oil. “I always choose one that is cold-pressed, as it is the least refined,” she tells SBS. “Once you have a good quality extra virgin olive oil, you don’t really need any other oil. Even for baking, I use a light olive oil – not a robust one – to ensure that I produce a flavour that is delicate.”
Tomatoes
“In Mediterranean cuisine, tomatoes are as important as olive oil, salt and pepper. That’s why they’re prevalent in so dishes across many Mediterranean countries from Italy to Israel.”
Fresh tomato is a favourite for salads like a Greek salad or tabouleh. “But I also cook a lot with canned crushed tomatoes. I use it to make pasta sauces, baked meatballs with a spiced tomato sauce and braised meats.”
She says a good quality can of crushed tomatoes should be jammy and ripe, and absent of preservatives and additives.
In Mediterranean cuisine, tomatoes are as important as olive oil, salt and pepper.
Gluten-free flours
Gluten-free plain flour: “The quality of gluten-free plain flour varies greatly between products. Every brand has its own blend so you need to find the right one to suit your tastes and needs. However, I find that the premium brands are usually of a higher quality.”
Alternative flours: “I also use a lot of nut or seed meals in my baking (almond, hazelnut, sunflower seed and pumpkin seed meal), which are naturally gluten-free.”
Derived from the cassava plant that’s native to South America, tapioca flour is another top alternative. The home cook uses tapioca flour for crumbing, thickening and binding.
Greek feta
“Feta is a very versatile cheese I use in so many dishes, including salads, pasta and prawn saganaki. So I always have an authentic Greek feta on hand.”
To choose a good quality feta, Tzouganatos always selects cheese with a stark white colour and creamy texture.
Dark chocolate
“There are some brands of chocolate on the market that contain barley, which is a big no-no if you are gluten-free.” Tzouganatos always use dark cocoa with 70 per cent cocoa, as it’s gluten-free and rich in flavour.
Gluten-free baking powder
The role of gluten in a cake is to add elasticity and sponginess. “So, when I’m making a gluten-free cake, I generally use 30-50 per cent more gluten-free baking powder than is required just to give the cake a bit more rise.”
Pumpkin pie with walnut and honey (Kolokithopita) Source: Jeremy Simons
Eggs
Eggs are another great ingredient that can help to provide the sponginess and moisture that a gluten-free cake might be missing.
“I've got a recipe for a chocolate roulade with espresso cream in my new book. It’s super light and airy but we don’t use any flour. Instead, aerated eggs are used to bring softness, lightness and fluffiness to the dessert. It tastes delicious.”
