Hájas Hungarian lard pastries with plum jam

"I wanted to include this recipe not only for its prominent place in Transylvanian Hungarian cuisine, but also because it is made with pure fats. As the philosophy of farming and selling meat sustainably gathers momentum, many more butchers are now offering lard, fresh beef suet and tallow."

Hájas Hungarian lard pastries with plum jam Credit: Matt Russell

• makes

  12

• prep

  1:30 hour

• cook

  25 minutes

• difficulty

  Mid

Traditionally, these puff pastries use shredded leaf lard to create the beautiful layers. For practical reasons, I tested a combination that is more accessible than leaf lard. I have the recipe from Rebeka Stamate, born in the old spa town of Sovata, and she told me to keep a light hand when rolling the pastry, otherwise the layers don't open fully.

Ingredients

For the prune filling

• 100 g prunes
• zest and juice of 1 medium lemon

For the dough

• 350 g (2 ¾ cups) strong bread flour, plus extra for dusting
• 1 medium egg, lightly beaten
• 1 tsp (5 g) salt
• 2 tsp verjuice or vinegar
• 50 g (¼ cup) sour cream
• 120 ml (½ cup) water

For the lard mixture

• 80 g unsalted butter, softened
• 80 g pure lard, preferably from a jar, at room temperature
• 1 tbsp strong bread flour

To serve

• icing sugar, for dusting

You will need to start this recipe a day ahead.

Resting time (day 1): 45 minutes

Refrigeration time: 15-30 minutes + overnight
Resting time (day 2): 20 minutes

Instructions

1. First, make the filling. In a food processor, purée the prunes with the lemon zest and juice to a thick consistency. Add the juice gradually – you may not need it all.
2. Next, make the dough by mixing all the ingredients in a bowl. Knead until it comes away from the sides of the bowl. Cover and leave to rest for 15 minutes. Repeat this process twice more.
3. Meanwhile, make the lard mixture. Cream the butter with the lard to a soft, mousse-like consistency. Mix in the flour, then set aside in a warm place without letting it melt.
4. Briefly knead the dough again before you start to roll it. Roll it out on a lightly floured work surface to a 30 x 40 cm rectangle with the long side closest to you. Keep flouring underneath if it gets too sticky. It is a soft dough, so be gentle and don't press too much on the pastry when rolling. Make sure that the sides of the rectangle are straight. Spread a quarter of the lard mixture over the dough with your fingertips, leaving a little edge around the outside for sealing. Fold the top third into the middle, then fold the bottom third over it to cover. Next, bring the right-hand third over to the middle, then fold the left-hand third on top of that so it looks like a book with the spine on the left. Place in the refrigerator for 15–30 minutes until firm but still flexible.
5. Repeat this rolling, folding and chilling process three more times, adding a further quarter of the lard mixture each time. It is okay if, as you keep rolling, you work with a slightly smaller rectangle. Rest the pastry in the refrigerator overnight.
6. The next day, allow the dough to rest at room temperature for 20 minutes. Roll out to a 25 x 35 cm rectangle with the short side nearest you. Cut into thirds vertically, then into quarters horizontally. Don't use a slicing movement, but rather one clear, decisive cut, without dragging the knife, otherwise, the edges will seal and will not open. Some people like to heat the knife blade with a blowtorch to ensure a clean cut.
7. Place 1 teaspoonful of plum filling in the middle of each rectangle. Gently fold one short side of each rectangle over the filling. Try not to lift the pastry by the edges and don't press or seal. Place on a lined baking tray and place back in the refrigerator while you heat the oven.
8. Preheat the oven to 220°C (210°C fan-forced) – ideally, use a fan oven for this recipe. Bake for 25 minutes on a lower shelf of the oven. Transfer to a wire rack to cool and dust with icing sugar to serve.

Note

• If you find a block of fresh leaf lard to buy, it needs to be shredded first, then whipped to a mousse consistency. Use 160 g without mixing it with butter.

 

This recipe is from Tava, Eastern European Baking and Desserts from Romania and Beyond by Irina Georgescu, published by Hardie Grant (RRP $55.00). Photography by Matt Russell.

Cook's Notes

Oven temperatures are for conventional; if using fan-forced (convection), reduce the temperature by 20˚C. | We use Australian tablespoons and cups: 1 teaspoon equals 5 ml; 1 tablespoon equals 20 ml; 1 cup equals 250 ml. | All herbs are fresh (unless specified) and cups are lightly packed. | All vegetables are medium size and peeled, unless specified. | All eggs are 55-60 g, unless specified.

Traditionally, these puff pastries use shredded leaf lard to create the beautiful layers. For practical reasons, I tested a combination that is more accessible than leaf lard. I have the recipe from Rebeka Stamate, born in the old spa town of Sovata, and she told me to keep a light hand when rolling the pastry, otherwise the layers don't open fully.