Nyonya-style chicken curry (Kari kapitan)

The word 'kapitan' refers to the captains or chiefs during the British colonial era, for whom this dish was usually cooked. Unlike the other curry dishes, this tends to be thicker and less 'soupy', and is wonderfully rich in flavour.

Kari kapitan (Nyonya-style chicken curry) Credit: Georgia Gold

• serves

  4

• prep

  15 minutes

• cook

  1 hour

• difficulty

  Mid

Ingredients

• 125 ml (½ cup) vegetable oil
• 2.5 cm piece toasted belacan (shrimp paste)
• 2 tbsp soft brown sugar
• 250 ml (1 cup) coconut milk
• 3 potatoes, peeled and quartered
• 1 tbsp tamarind paste
• 5 makrut lime leaves, finely sliced
• 1 tsp salt, or to taste
• Lacy pancakes, Turmeric rice (recipe below) or Tomato rice, to serve 

Marinated chicken

• 8 chicken drumsticks
• 1 tbsp ground turmeric
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil

Spice paste

• 2 tbsp Basic chilli paste (recipe below)
• 2 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 large red onion, peeled and quartered
• 4 garlic cloves
• 2.5 cm piece ginger
• 1 tbsp ground galangal (optional)
• 2 tsp ground turmeric
• 3 lemongrass stalks, white part only
• 5 roasted candlenuts (optional)

Basic chilli paste

Makes about 750 g (3 cups)

• 500 g dried chillies
• 3 bulbs garlic, cloves separated and peeled
• 250 ml (1 cup) vegetable oil
• 2 tbsp salt

Turmeric rice (optional)

Serves 4

• 250 g (1¼ cups) glutinous rice
• 1½ tbsp tamarind paste
• 1 tsp ground turmeric
• banana leaves, for lining the steamer
• 250 ml (1 cup) coconut cream
• pinch of salt
• 1 tsp sugar

Soaking time: 15 minutes

Marinating time: 30 minutes

If making the turmeric rice to serve, allow an extra 1–2 hours soaking time for the rice, 15 minutes preparation and 30 minutes cooking time.

Instructions

1. If you are making the turmeric rice to serve, wash the rice until the water runs clear, then tip it into a clean bowl and pour in enough water to cover. Add the tamarind and turmeric and stir well, then leave to soak for 1–2 hours.
2. Line a steamer basket with banana leaves. Strain the rice and place in the prepared steamer, spreading it out evenly. Cover and steam for 20–25 minutes until the rice is cooked. Pour the rice into a bowl, keeping the banana leaf lining in the basket, then add the coconut cream and salt and mix until the rice is well coated in the coconut cream. Scoop the coconut rice back in the lined steamer basket and steam for another 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and tip it back into the same bowl. Sprinkle over the sugar and mix well.
3. For the basic chilli paste, cut the dried chillies in half lengthways and remove as many seeds as possible, then soak the chillies in water for 15 minutes.
4. Drain and rinse the chillies, then place in a saucepan with the garlic and enough water to cover them. Bring to the boil, then drain and set aside to cool.
5. Using a food processor or a blender (and working in batches if necessary), process the chilli and garlic mixture with the oil and salt to a smooth paste. Transfer to one large container or a few smaller ones, then cover and store in the fridge for up to 1 month.
6. Meanwhile, for the marinated chicken, place the drumsticks in a large glass or ceramic bowl, add the turmeric, salt and oil and rub it all over the skin. Cover and marinate for at least 30 minutes, or overnight if time permits.
7. To prepare the spice paste, place all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and blend to a smooth paste. Set aside.
8. Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. Add the chicken drumsticks in batches and cook for 2–3 minutes each side until golden brown all over, but not yet cooked through. Remove with tongs and place in a bowl lined with paper towel.
9. Reheat the oil in the wok over medium heat. Add the spice paste mix and sauté for about 1 minute. Add the belacan and stir-fry for 5 minutes or until aromatic and the oil has separated. Stir in the brown sugar.
10. Add the coconut milk and 125 ml (½ cup) water. Return the chicken pieces to the wok and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is nearly cooked and the sauce has reduced and thickened.
11. Add the potato, tamarind paste, lime leaves and salt and stir together well. Simmer for another 10 minutes or until the chicken and potato are cooked through. Serve with lacy pancakes or your choice of rice.

Notes

• Belacan – also known as fermented shrimp paste – is a staple in Peranakan and Malay cuisine. Belacan is made from krill (tiny shrimp-like crustaceans) that have been salted, dried and fermented, which yield its deep salty-umami taste. Raw belacan should be toasted in a dry frying pan before using for best results.

• Candlenuts are large round nuts that closely resemble macadamias in appearance and texture, candlenuts are a key ingredient in Malaysian cooking, where they are regularly used as a thickener and a flavour and texture enhancer in sauce-based dishes like curry, rendang and sambal. Candlenuts should never be eaten raw as they are mildly toxic, so cook them for at least 15 minutes at 120°C (250°F) or above to help reduce their toxic effect and bitterness.

Penang Local by Aim Aris and Ahmad Salim, published by Smith Street Books (RRP $39.99). Photography by Georgia Gold. 

Cook's Notes

Oven temperatures are for conventional; if using fan-forced (convection), reduce the temperature by 20˚C. | We use Australian tablespoons and cups: 1 teaspoon equals 5 ml; 1 tablespoon equals 20 ml; 1 cup equals 250 ml. | All herbs are fresh (unless specified) and cups are lightly packed. | All vegetables are medium size and peeled, unless specified. | All eggs are 55-60 g, unless specified.