Tray-baked speculaas (Dikke speculaas)

Dikke speculaas (thick or tray-baked speculaas), a traditional Saint Nicholas and winter treat, is the type most commonly baked in the home, because it doesn’t require a lot of technique. It has no airs as the dough is just pushed out on a baking tray and baked as it is – no speculaas mould. The result is a chewy speculaas with a thin crusty edge and soft inside. You can push in the middle and it will spring back a little.

Credit: Regula Ysewijn / Murdoch Books

• makes

  1

• prep

  10 minutes

• cook

  20 minutes

• difficulty

  Easy

It should never be fully baked, as it becomes dry: 15–20 minutes is enough to leave the inner crumb still moist. When cold this speculaas becomes more crisp, yet baked correctly it will not turn dry, as usually it is long gone before it has a chance to dry out. A lot of bakers used to sell it as well, and some old-fashioned ones still do.

This is a family recipe for home-made thick speculaas from a man who has been a custodian of one of the oldest remaining authentic Belgian cafés. I wrote about him and his café, De Kat, in my book about this fragile Belgian heritage: Belgian Cafe Culture. Ever since he gave me this recipe I have made this speculaas often, and it has become a firm favourite with friends and family.

Ingredients

• 250 g (9 oz) unsalted butter, softened
• 330 g (11¾ oz) brown sugar
• 20 g (¾ oz) ground cinnamon
• ¼ tsp ground cloves or allspice
• 3 eggs, whisked
• 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) plain flour

Makes one large or two smaller loaves.

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Do not use the fan setting. Line a baking tray with baking paper.
2. Put the butter and sugar in a large bowl or the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, and knead on low speed or use a spatula to rub the butter into the sugar. Add the spices and the eggs, bit by bit, until fully incorporated, then start adding the flour a scoop at a time, kneading until well combined.
3. Pat the dough into a block. It should not be so sticky that it sticks to your hands, so try to avoid adding flour. Better use a wooden spatula or chill the dough if it is too sticky.
4. Place the dough block onto the baking tray, push it out to 2–2.5 cm (¾-1 inch) thickness and bake as one large sheet. Or do as I prefer – divide the dough in half and make 2 smaller ones, so there are more crusty edges for everyone to enjoy, or you have one to give away.
5. Bake for 20–25 minutes and then cool on a wire rack. The edges will be slightly darker than the rest and will have tiny cracks, while the middle should spring back when pushed with a finger.
6. This is best eaten lukewarm with a cup of milk, cut into random wedges according to how peckish you are. Keep in an airtight container.

 

Image and recipe from Dark Rye and Honey Cake by Regula Ysewijn, photography by Regula Ysewijn (Murdoch Books, $55)

Cook's Notes

Oven temperatures are for conventional; if using fan-forced (convection), reduce the temperature by 20˚C. | We use Australian tablespoons and cups: 1 teaspoon equals 5 ml; 1 tablespoon equals 20 ml; 1 cup equals 250 ml. | All herbs are fresh (unless specified) and cups are lightly packed. | All vegetables are medium size and peeled, unless specified. | All eggs are 55-60 g, unless specified.

It should never be fully baked, as it becomes dry: 15–20 minutes is enough to leave the inner crumb still moist. When cold this speculaas becomes more crisp, yet baked correctly it will not turn dry, as usually it is long gone before it has a chance to dry out. A lot of bakers used to sell it as well, and some old-fashioned ones still do.

This is a family recipe for home-made thick speculaas from a man who has been a custodian of one of the oldest remaining authentic Belgian cafés. I wrote about him and his café, De Kat, in my book about this fragile Belgian heritage: Belgian Cafe Culture. Ever since he gave me this recipe I have made this speculaas often, and it has become a firm favourite with friends and family.