Are mozzarella sticks "authentic" Italian food?

Fried mozzarella sticks are the talk of any town's bistro, bar, family eatery, canteen - the list goes on. While they've raged the Western world, mozzarella itself hails all the way from Naples, Italy. So what do Italian chefs think about these squisito sticks?

Mozzarella Cheese Sticks

Breaded fried mozzarella cheese sticks with tomato marinara dipping sauce Source: iStockphoto

---  airs weeknights on SBS Food at 7.00pm and 10.30pm from 21 March, or stream it free on . Catch the Mozzarella episode Monday, 21 March. ---

 

Fried cheese sticks are kid-friendly, budget-friendly, and package that chewy and melted texture you'd normally only get on a pizza or as a garnish on bakes. The most commonly used cheese is mozzarella, and while you've seen them making their rounds most recently, they have a hot history dating back to the 14th century. 

Early iterations were actually developed in France.  references cheese breaded in a wet batter of egg yolks, flour, salt, and wine (yes, wine!), then fried on a hot iron skillet. I'm suddenly envisioning a pub-fried mozzarella stick in ye olde medieval France, in a tavern somewhere in the middle of the woods. Can you imagine a Knight's roundtable, strategising their next plan of attack with a few pints and some mozzarella sticks?

The modern version you see today re-emerged in the 60's and 70's, when deep frying technology took clubs, restaurants, and dive bars by storm. Food historian Joel Jensen also notes the mass-production of mozzarella around that time in this stick's journey to success.
A French recipe book dating back to 1393 references cheese breaded in a wet batter of egg yolks, flour, salt, and wine (yes, wine!), then fried on a hot iron skillet.
New Zealand-born chef Morgan McGlone brings them to The Cook Up kitchen for the show's second season premiere, where he makes them a smidge chunkier and serves the sticks with a smoky side sauce.
MAKE MORGAN'S MOZZARELLA STICKS

Fried mozzarella sticks, smoked tomato sauce

I personally love these little guys. They're crunchy on the outside with the perfect amount of resistance when you first bite into them. I prefer them dipped in ketchup, with the cheese already oozing out. My favourite one was from a little corner pizza shop in New York. Over in the States, you see them most commonly in pizzerias and Italian street stalls. It seems the Italian-American cooking community has accepted them whole-heartedly. Alas, I'm no Italian cuisine expert. But I did ask one.
"I have to disagree when it comes to fried mozzarella being a French dish," The Star Sydney's Cucina Porto executive chef Martino Pulito argues. "We believe it was born in Italy - especially in the mid and south of Italy where a few different recipes were created. One of the most famous dishes that we have is the bocconcini panati (crumbed mozzarella), used everywhere as an aperitivo - a good nibble to be used alongside prosciutto, panzerotti and olives."

The Puglia raised Pulito personally loves "fried mozzarella, especially when it’s done fresh. It provides a culinary journey other fried dishes don’t deliver. The crunchy outside made from bread or beer batter is a crazy experience, and then when cut in half, and you see the stringy cheese - delicious!"

These tasty treats are "a bit like Italians," the chef says. "Very strong, and loud on the outside, but when you go dig a bit deeper, we are soft at heart."

Expert or not, I think they're worth the try. You can't ever go wrong with a bit of fried cheese. 

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3 min read
Published 17 March 2022 11:56am
Updated 17 March 2022 5:44pm
By Mark Mariano


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