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The Dublin-born celebrity chef, , is a master of pub pedigree food. Regularly introduced to the public as a famed trainee of the legend, Raymond Blanc, his resume is both prestigious and impressive.
But strip back the titles, tap into his Celtic culture and you’ll discover the chef’s real food persona. It’s based on a philosophy that celebrates wholesome fare, decorated in the goodness of
“For a while, people probably thought Irish food was a bit stodgy,” Fassnidge, , tells SBS.
“Obviously potatoes are a huge part of our diet. But Irish cuisine is not potatoes done seven ways. There’s so much more to the Irish diet than that. The food scene in Ireland today is thriving.”
Ireland currently has , not to mention all the many restaurants, cafes and pubs/diners serving top notch meals using local produce.
The food scene in Ireland today is thriving.
The chef recalls how the produce in Ireland, from his youth to today, has always been of exceptional quality. “The chefs and producers in Ireland can stand up there with the best in the world. Fruits are in abundance. We're a big dairy country with great beef and lamb. Then there’s seafood – it’s outstanding.”
Fassnidge explains that after the in the mid-1800s, there were no potatoes to eat. “So people turned to the seashore, eating what they had access to: shellfish, fish and seaweed.” The tradition of eating the fruits of the sea has continued ever since.
Visits to the fish and chip shop were a big part of the chef’s childhood, as were shopping trips to Dublin’s street markets.
“In the centre of town, fish was sold in the open air, in barrels on the streets. I remember the old school women shouting out what fish they were selling. There were always lots of scallops and oysters from Galway Bay, as well as the Dublin Bay prawn, which is similar to langoustine.”
Irish roots in wholesome food
Talk of edible Irish delights excites Fassnidge, as do mentions of hearty family meals from his childhood. It’s a passion that he says was handed down to him by both parents.
Fassnidge’s mum was the main cook at home: “like most Irish mothers, because as that’s what they do. They are like the nonnas of Italian culture. They just love to feed”.
“My mother instilled into us that food isn’t just for eating but also for enjoyment. When I think of food now, I still think of enjoyment, family, sitting around a table and great events.”
“...like most Irish mothers, because as that’s what they do. They are like the nonnas of Italian culture. They just love to feed”.
The chef’s dad (who worked in the family shoe store) also cooked dinner twice a week. “Now, that’s not typical in Ireland, as a lot of Irish men need to be fed by their wives. Back then in Ireland, it was also frowned upon if a man wanted to cook, as people believed he should be doing more ‘manly’ jobs. So seeing my dad in the kitchen normalised cooking for me.”
Fassnidge reminisces about his father sourcing livers and other animal off-cuts for dinner. Back then, he says, nose-to-tail eating wasn’t just a trend: it was a regular part of family life.
“I remember a time in our first house, when my dad was walking down the back garden with a black sack full of livers. His friend had killed an animal and he got the liver and kidneys. We didn’t waste food and there were always some secondary cuts floating around.”
The Irish-Australian chef proudly states that he still enjoys livers and kidneys today. He’s also celebrated for his waste-free, nose-to-tail cooking: a style that is considered traditional in Ireland.
Nostalgic cuisine and food that I like
At Banksia, where Fassnidge is the executive chef, Irish cuisine is given a nod of respect through a modern Australian menu boasting various Irish classics.
“We make battered fish using beautiful fresh fish, which we tempura and sprinkle with malt vinegar. The minute I eat that, I'm back in Ireland aged 10 eating at a fish and chip shop.”
The Irish favourite, Colcannon, is served along side ham hock. Let’s not forget Fassnidge’s Irish curry chips.
Corned beef, an Irish staple, is but another feature. “I use a glamour piece of beef for it. It’s a stand out dish and a lot better than a fillet steak.”
Nostalgia has also kicked in a bit more. I am not out to please the critics. I am just out to please me.
Fassnidge says these meals are intentionally wholesome, representing who he is today and the rich culture that shaped him.
“I am 48-years-old now. I enjoy making simpler foods rather than a bowl of foam. I find ingredients that I love and cook them.
“My style has gotten a lot lighter since I’ve gotten older. Nostalgia has also kicked in a bit more. I am not out to please the critics. I am just out to please me.”
