Bangkok is unarguably a paradise for foodies. Almost literally every corner of this vibrant city is filled with delicious and reasonably-priced street food. It is so good that CNN listed Bangkok as one of the best cities in the world for street food.
As Australian chef David Thompson, author of , points out, Thai street food is not only for tourists, but it has been a tasty source of everyday food for people from all walks of life in Bangkok, ranging from Tuk Tuk drivers to IT office workers.
However, on 18 April, 2017, the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA), the local government of Bangkok, announced its plan to clear the streets from food carts and stalls in order to return footpaths to pedestrians by the end of this year.
Australian chef David Thompson in an episode of his SBS TV series 'Thai Street Food' Source: Thai Street Food with David Thompson
This plan has not only created an uproar from street food vendors themselves, but has also become a controversial issue expressed in both local and international media all over the world.
Celebrated chef David Thompson tells SBS Thai that the BMA is unaware of just how much Thais’ stomachs and livelihood depends on the delicious, easily accessible, and cheap street food.
Saiyon Panya, featured on Dateline, has been selling salad from a food cart for 20 yrs. She's recently been asked to leave the area where her shop is based. Source: SBS Dateline
“Thai street food provides food for so many Thais who can't afford to eat else where,” says Thompson. "It also employs a sizeable segment of the community.”
“There are small entrepreneurial carts or stalls that feed the people who are otherwise unable to afford to eat in the areas where they work.
“To me it's absolute an abdication of social responsibility to try to remove the provision of that food.”
Chef David Thompson pictured at his Perth restaurant Long Chim Source: Long Chim
To this veteran Thai restaurateur, Thai street food will certainly lose its alluring charms without the chaotic backdrop of the dynamic streets of Bangkok.
Thompson argues that Thai street food without the streets is like “being in Singapore without actually being there, or eating at Siam Paragon (shopping mall).”
“There's something about the casual nature of street food in Thailand that just suits the languid approach to living that Thais have,” he says.
“You put it into malls and into air-conditioned areas or markets, it's not going to have the same laissez-faire and the same delicious chaos that Bangkok has.
“Bangkok is a disheveled, messy and smelly city. But it's full of soul, charms, energy and joy of living, which also means food too,” says the TV documentary host.
Thompson acknowledged that there are needs to raise standards on hygiene and orderliness of street food and vendor stalls.
However, he insisted that this initiative should be generated from a genuine appetite of the people.
“If there's a natural change that was organic and that occurred simply because of people changing eating habits, then who could fight against that?”
“But it is a dictated issue by the government who wants to regulate and wants to clean up the streets.”
Given the outcry of Bangkok’s street food vendors, international tourists and the media, the on its initial announcement and states that there won’t be an outright ban of street food in Bangkok.
In the past even floods could not stop the ubiquitous street vendors from selling their wares. Pictured near the flooded Chao Phraya river in Bangkok in 2011. Source: Getty Images
Now however, they will place the emphasis on hygiene, waste management and cleanliness of street food.
David Thompson firmly believes that any attempts to ban street food will surely fail and, as he put it, “will be overcome by Thais and their natural hunger and their natural care and tendency to eat wherever they are.”
“As you know, food is very crucial to Thais,” says Thompson. "They will find a way to sprout their cooking again on the streets because people want to be fed.”
“They also need to be fed affordably and quickly - and Thai street food services that demand.”
Listen to David Thompson's full interview (in English) with SBS Thai in the player at the top of the page.
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