Explainer

EXPLAINER: What is food sovereignty and what can it look like in our communities?

Some mob dream of a Blak economy of food growers and traders as it was before colonisation.

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Bush to Bowl is a 100 per cent First Nations social enterprise that aims to connect mob back to Country. From left to right: Cooper Darmopil-Kerslake, Leela Foster, Adam Byrne, Charlize Barrett. Credit: Bronte Charles

There's no denying that Blackfellas love a good feed.

But have you ever considered the role that food can play in self-determination?

We've seen traditional foods like warrigal greens, finger limes, lemon myrtle and pepperberry (to name a few) pop up in fancy restaurants.

So, is there a way for mob to determine how traditional foods are used and who is able to profit?

Adam Byrne is a Garigal/Gadigal man and the co-owner of Bush to Bowl who thinks he may have found a way.

Bush to Bowl is a 100 per cent First Nations social enterprise that aims to connect mob back to Country and traditional foodways.

The organisation also aims to develop the economic position of community when it comes to our foods.

What is food sovereignty?

Food sovereignty is an interesting concept that can be described as the right to have access to and produce sustainable, cultural and nutritional food systems.

Food sovereignty also describes the right to taking ownership and control over one's health.

Food sovereignty has been argued to restore and preserve Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander food systems and traditional knowledge about nutrition.

For Adam, food sovereignty is all about survival and reclamation.

"Food and medicines [have been] at the core of our culture and our survival for over 65,000 years. It's about reclaiming culture, which was taken away," he told NITV.

Adam says that food sovereignty can be a means to preserve culture and traditions.

"I think food sovereignty means connection. I think it means us coming together and be closer to our culture," he said.

Can native foods become intellectual property?

It's started to become a trend for restaurants to incorporate native ingredients into their dishes and serve them up with a hefty price tag.

This feeds in to a broader colonial idea that food is a commodity.

Adam and the team at Bush to Bowl are part of that two per cent. He said more representation in the industry could allow Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples to have more control over what is done with their native foods.

"We have to take control of our food sovereignty because that helps with self-determination.

"Having more of a hold of the industry creates more opportunities for our mob to get on Country and connect to their foods," he said.
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Traditional foods have increased in popularity at big name restaurants. Credit: Rachael Knowles
Adam says that far too many traditional foods are being exploited by large corporations, without any benefit going to Indigenous people.

has been named as one solution when it comes to taking ownership of traditional foods.

Adam says there is already one famous example.

"We need to do something similar to what Kakadu have done where they've taken the intellectual property of the Kakadu plum.

"They've taken ownership and then they determine what happens with that fruit," he said.

Food security and a "blak economy"

Adam says that food sovereignty is about bringing back traditional food systems that can address the food-related health disparities between Indigenous and non-Indigenous people.

This is because food sovereignty is about communities being able to have control over their own agricultural systems and food production.
It's about sharing food with community, not taking more than what you need, being sustainable, and reciprocity.

"We want to do what the opposite to what the food industry is doing now which is mass consumption: not growing to seasons, not selling to seasons," he said.

He says that food waste is not part of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander culture.

"If there's too much or something, then we share it," he said.

Adopting traditional food systems that were used by our old people can lead to greater food security in our communities.

For example, Adam says that the could be adopted in present time.
"My dream is for us to have that Songline of trade all through Australia like traditional ways.

"We're trying to create a Blak economy where we can trade or we can work together to build each other up.

"It's been a big journey for us to even find other Blak businesses or Blak growers that we can buy from or we can support," he told NITV.

He says that going back to these traditional practices can promote the exchange and preservation of cultural knowledge.

"You're creating kinship and a community and you're sharing foods and not only that but you're trading. You're trading those foods and you're trading knowledge," he said.

How can food sovereignty impact Country?

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Bush to Bowl prioritise the care-taking of Country.
Adam says that Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander culture is "one of the most sustainable cultures ever".

Food sovereignty can positively impact the environment because in principle, food sovereignty champions sustainable food production.

The team at Bush to Bowl is an example of that. They utilise local food supply chains and use biodegradable materials.

"You're only thinking within your community and within your mob so our food doesn't have to travel ... We don't want those food miles.
"Down to how you made your tools, your bowls, everything was from Country and everything broke back down into Country," Adam told NITV.

Colonisation greatly impacted Australia's landscape ecology.

Settlers didn't use Aboriginal land management practices, and instead used their own.

To Adam, food sovereignty means prioritising the cultivation of native plants and foods.

Food sovereignty champions organic production instead of using fertilisers and chemicals. This is because native plants thrive in their native environments.

Adam says his ancestors had all of this knowledge and that we must do all we can to preserve it.

"If there's anything that we can learn from our culture and rep our old people it would be by being sustainable and taking care of Country as much as we can," he said.

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6 min read
Published 12 March 2024 10:01am
By Bronte Charles
Source: NITV


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