Little Odessa shows there’s more to Eastern European cuisine then borscht and pierogi

Although you’ll want to order those dishes, too.

On the menu at Little Odessa: borscht, pierogi and seared sardines with lesco sauce. Source: Audrey Bourget

The sister-and-brother duo behind Little Odessa have hospitality in their blood. When Sofia and Stefan Soltys were growing up, their family owned restaurants in Melbourne – so it seemed natural for them to open Frances Food & Coffee in the CBD a few years ago. It was their first cafe.

Their new venture, a Fitzroy wine bar called Little Odessa, has a more personal connection. It celebrates their Ukrainian heritage. “In some sense, we wanted to recreate the experience we had at our grandparents' home. It’s very welcoming. You come through the door, people get up and embrace each other and then the food and the conversations start flowing,” Stefan Soltys tells SBS Food.

Sofia and Stefan Soltys: hospitality runs in their blood. (Audrey Bourget) Source: Audrey Bourget

Tradition and modernity

The menu at Little Odessa takes inspiration from Ukraine, of course, but other Eastern European countries as well. There are dishes that you’d immediately associate with the region, like borscht, cucumber, dill and yoghurt salad and pierogi. “We don’t need to really encourage people to try the pierogi because it’s a dumpling and Melbourne loves dumplings,” says Stefan with a laugh.

On the menu are two types of pierogi: pork and apple, and potato and cheddar. Source: Audresy

While the nod to tradition is there, the Soltys siblings are working with chef Nathan George to bring different techniques and some lightness to the dishes.

“It’s a very tight balance. We know that people who are from Eastern Europe would like something more traditional, but we also want to showcase to Australians the possibilities of what can be done with this cuisine,” says Sofia. “Eastern European food can be quite heavy and stodgy. What we’re doing is keeping the flavours and the ingredients, but preparing them in different ways.”

A big seller is the layered honey cake, honeycomb crumble and vanilla pastry cream. Source: Wilson Liew

Look at the buttermilk pork loin braised and served with prune jam and Hungarian placki (potato pancake): “It has the element of Eastern European cooking – where we use fruits and meat and potatoes together – but we’ve cooked it in a more approachable way,” says Sofia.

The dill and vodka salmon tartare with pickled cucumber and rye bread also brings together classic ingredients in a new way.

Dill and vodka salmon tartare with pickled cucumber and rye bread at Little Odessa. (Wilson Liew) Source: Wilson Liew

The wine list focuses on natural wines, mostly Australian, with a few interesting Eastern European drops like a Transylvanian chardonnay.

Ukrainian hospitality

The siblings say both the Ukrainian community and the Fitzroy locals have been incredibly supportive since their opening in February. “We find that our family history resonates with a lot of people coming here whose grandparents came over after the Second World War,” says Stefan.

A wine bar with a sense of community. Source: Wilson Liew

“We always wanted to be part of the community and be connected.  We don’t want to be an anonymous place with rotating staff,” adds Sofia.

With FIFA World Cup underway in Russia, Little Odessa might be the perfect getaway for fans who couldn’t score a ticket. Here, you can travel vicariously via your meal and discover the delights of Russian cuisine beyond borscht.

Find out how you can watch FIFA World Cup Russia 2018™ on SBS. #WeAllSpeakFootball

 

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Little Odessa

Wed – Fri 5 pm till late

Sat- Sun 1 pm till late 

274 Rear Brunswick St, Fitzroy, Victoria 3065

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